Monday 21 July 2014

Den Gouden Harynck, Bruges

Date of Visit: 25 March 2014


One of the lower-key restaurants with very simple and cosy decor.  We might have missed it and not known it was a Michelin-starred restaurant if we had just happened to walk past.


I loved how the table layout and space between the tables made the place come across as very unassuming and understated high-class.  You don't have to pull out the bells and whistles to impress when your food and service can speak for themselves.


Quite amusing to be the only young Asians in a restaurant full of Westerners who looked like they are retirees or about to retire.  I guess we got an authentic local experience!

I much prefer this kind of Michelin restaurant than the more well-known ones that everyone and their parents and best friends have seemed to already made their rounds at.  Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in London is one such example.  The downside of such places is that the menu seems to lose its novelty after many people have posted photos of the signature dishes like tipsy cake and meat fruit.  The excitement and surprise element are no longer as strong.


They had a menu that was simple to understand and fuss-free!  The kind that I like very much :)

We chose the lunch set menu (€39 per pax) which was basically a 3-course meal planned by the chef, so that meant we couldn't choose the courses.

Amuse Bouches
Light, fresh and a delightful start to the meal.

Clams with green apple and fresh cheese

Squid with green pea


The Courses

Starter:  Marinated sea bream with mint pesto and cheese

Very well-marinated and the mint pesto was a brilliant way to balance the distinctive taste of the fish and make it even more refreshing and light.  The kind of dish that I like - focuses not so much on presentation (although it does look pretty with the accents of red and green in the photo) but more on quality of meat and balance of flavours.  The fish was really fresh as well.  A winner in my books!

9/10


Main:  Veal with turnip, mushrooms, mizu, eggplant and chutney

The meat here was cooked to perfection.  Extremely tender, succulent and the thin layer of fat resting atop the cuts was a nice touch.  

I like how the dish played a little with the fusion concept - it had hints of Japanese flavours, Japanese mushrooms and Japanese glaze on the eggplant.  The flavours came together surprisingly well and did not distract me from the star of the dish (the veal) but complemented it together with the chutney and creamy sauce.

My main gripe is that the glaze on the eggplant was too salty and the portion was a little small for guys.

8.5/10



Basics done right :)

Dessert:  Orange sorbet with meringue and burnt caramel

The dessert was nothing spectacular, and the orange sorbet helped to neutralised the other elements which were slightly too sweet for me.  It would have been nice if there were more flavours in this dessert, because it was quite plain.  Other than that, a safe option that was executed decently.

7/10



Service: 7/10

Standard Michelin fare, and I liked that the menu was simple to understand, although some might prefer being able to choose between red or white meat or their favourite dessert (no choices available for the basic lunch set that we had).  This also meant that we couldn't try more dishes on their menu since we had the same courses.

Taste: 8/10

From the start to the mains, I was mightily pleased with this rare find by K, and was thankful that he hunted for Michelin-starred restaurants in this city to include in our itinerary.  I was pleasantly surprised by how the tastes were subtle and familiar but still packed their own punch.

The dishes might not have been particularly innovative, but I much prefer this kind of food that gets the basics right and leaves you refreshed and satisfied, ready to take on the rest of the day's sightseeing.  The dessert was not exactly a letdown, but could have helped to bring this meal further by ending it on a higher note.

Ambience: 8/10

I love observing the interior design of places I go to, and this restaurant made me feel at home the moment I walked in.  The decor had touches of colour that were not too loud and attention-seeking, but blended in nicely to add to the homely vibe.  The neutral and earthy tones in the colour scheme were also something I liked.

The number of tables in the small restaurant were just nice and they were spread out such that each table had enough privacy without losing this cosiness the restaurant had.  Minute details like a single stalk of white rose in a glass vase and a lighted candle on a silver candle holder somehow made the place feel romantic even in broad daylight.

However, it doesn't have the buzz of the modern open-kitchen concept Michelin-starred restaurants, so it would be more suitable for those who want to have a quiet, intimate lunch and do not care much for the bells and whistles.

Return?

Yes.  But only if I happen to be in the city again.


Groeninge 25 
8000 Bruges

Tel: +32 (0)50 33 76 37


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