Restaurant Labyrinth, Singapore

Date of Visit: 4 April 2014  

L to R:  Garlic foam, olive butter, balsamic vinegar jam

Served with warm and fluffy focaccia bread slices

Amuse-bouche:  Scallop carpaccio with lemon vinaigrette

Starter:  Mango Tomato Bruschetta

The tomato was seasoned and arranged such that it would look like a typical steak tartare.  There were tomato 'clouds' on the side as well to keep the salad light and refreshing although they did not have much taste.  The tomato was seasoned well, the sweet mango sauce on the top balanced out the tart flavours nicely and overall this dish was a solid introduction to the rest of the creative dishes.

8/10

The view from our counter seats (we were lucky enough to be seated in front of the chill crab station as it is Labyrinth's signature dish) and Chef-Owner Han Li Guang in action.

Main:  Chili Crab

The star of the meal, something that I was not expecting.  I was initially skeptical about how the chili crab ice cream might turn out, but am really glad it surprised me in a good way and showed me that chili crab can be refreshing and shiok without having to sweat it out in a seafood restaurant and struggle to crack the shell of the crab (then worry that shell bits might fly across the table and hit a lucky few).

I love this elegant representation and can imagine that it would be a good introduction to local food for foreigners who are more used to dining in a Western setting.  I personally love soft shell crab so this was a treat for me.  I liked that the ice cream stayed cold and firm without melting quickly like typical dessert ice creams, so we could slowly enjoy the dish without scrambling to finish it before it melts into a puddle.  The bisque foam, crab mousse and mantou sand all came together successfully to make this a very artistic dish (that was intended to look like a beach).

9/10

Main:  Chicken Curry

This dish was supposed to look like the undergrowth of a forest.  The deep fried chicken balls cut into halves were tasty and had a nice crumb to it.  K remarked it would have been nice if the chicken balls had curry in the centre or infused into it.  This dish did not exactly scream 'chicken curry' to me the same way the chili crab dish reminded me of the local dish so it didn't excite me as much.  Besides that, the curry quinoa risotto was delicious and spicy enough and the fried potato skins reminded me of potato wedges.  Overall still a very tasty dish although it did not give me the 'Eureka!' look like the others did.

8/10

Main:  Siew Yoke Fan

K chose this and really liked the 'fan', which was actually risotto cooked in Labyrinth's own ramen broth.  He liked how rich and satisfying the flavour was.  I too couldn't resist taking a few more bites of it when he offered.  The 'siew yoke' was well-seasoned - the meat was tender and juicy while the skin had a nice bite to it (instead of the usual very greasy yet crispy skins) and was really tasty.  This was K's favourite dish.

One thing that could be improved on is the presentation of this dish.  The 'siew yoke' could have been sliced into smaller, more manageable slices.  We both tried cutting the skin (from the top, from the meat side, then finally the skin alone) to no avail and eventually gave up haha.  It was not a pretty sight struggling with that glorious skin.  Biting the skin finally did the trick but even then that took a while.  I was quite amused, but really, it would help a lot if the block of meat was cut into slices or at least the skin had slits cut into them before serving.

8.5/10

Dessert:  Chendol Xiao Long Bao

This dessert put a very satisfied smile on my face.  It deserves a 9 because I am craving for more - it would have been nice if we were given just one more!  The 'vinegar' is actually gula melaka and the skin of the xiao long bao is pandan-flavoured.  We had to pour the vinegar onto the xiao long bao directly and slurp the whole thing down.  Loved that the skin had just enough thickness yet was still really smooth and melt-in-your-mouth.  I also liked this cute presentation.

A newspaper's food critic wrote that the individual flavours were not intense enough for him but K reckons it was better that it had a tinge so that it would make you crave for more.  I did initially think the flavours could have been stronger and the dish could have been colder too, but it delighted me that someone even came up with this idea and executed it well.  I also think it might have been too jelat and not as refreshing if the flavours were too strong.  Will never see xiao long bao the same way again and will fondly recall having this every time I have the savoury one.

9/10

Dessert:  Apple Crumble

I liked how the flavour in the apple textures were just concentrated enough and that the chef believes in making his own dried fruit slices instead of buying them.  Overall a light and sweet end to the meal that both of us liked because it was delicate and not overloaded with sugar or fruits but a good balance of both.

8/10

Service: 7/10

There were all the usual suspects that you would get in a Michelin-starred restaurant - bread, amuse bouche, explanation of the dishes, etc.  The kitchen staff who explained the dishes to us did a decent job although he seemed to lack the same enthusiasm as when Chef LG himself explained the dishes to another group sitting beside us.  I also felt the service staff were not very observant and sensitive, sometimes watching us too closely so they could clear our plates quickly but as a result not giving us the space and privacy to converse without being interrupted.

Taste: 8.5/10

The dishes were all well executed and thought out, and I found myself having quite a few moments of revelation during the meal where I just sat there smiling to myself.  I'm glad I had the opportunity to try Chef LG's dishes that were creative but weren't ruined by being too ambitious.  The balance of flavours hit the sweet spot most of the time and left me feeling very pleased.  

All this is very impressive considering Chef LG is not professionally trained although he did work in Michelin restaurants before setting up Labyrinth to gain experience.  Very proud to have a fellow Singaporean like him courageous enough to reconstruct local dishes and to quit his banking job to share his love for good food through this restaurant.

Ambience: 9/10

There are 14 counter seats and tables for 6 seats and I'm glad we got the counter seats although we didn't have much privacy as a result.  It felt like we got the chef's table at a Michelin restaurant which normally costs much more.  Watching the kitchen staff interact and the plating of the dishes provided great entertainment for most of the night.  

The restaurant is also located in a narrow and deep shophouse unit, giving it an exclusive and cosy vibe.  Bright lighting was used for the serving area so that the food could be presented in its full glory but the rest of the restaurant was dimly lit for a more relaxed and chill atmosphere.  

Having the Chef work at the counter and interact with his diners at the same time felt like he was serving up his dishes to his friends in his own home, which was a nice personal and heartfelt touch.  It is not a novel idea since Japanese omakase is best done that way for the chef to observe his diners and adjust accordingly, but I thought the application to Western dining was well done at Labyrinth.

Return?

Yes.  Restaurant Labyrinth may not have the same elegance and refined touches as other fine dining establishments, especially compared to the Michelin ones we've been to, but the quality of food is very promising and makes us excited.  

The price is also very reasonable for the quality and quantity.  Chef LG's boldness and passion for good food is heartening.  All that, I reckon, is what will carry this restaurant to greater heights.  The menu changes every month and Chef LG will be rolling out a lunch menu.  We are excited to see what fun new creations he comes up with.

5 Neil Road,

Singapore 088806

Restaurant Labyrinth Website

Tel: 65 6223 4098